Roasted Cauliflower with Hazelnuts Salad
No one told me that allspice could do this to cauliflower. Well, nobody until now. And let me, via the wisdom of Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, be the one to tell you that allspice can do this to cauliflower: not only is it a surprisingly sharp burst of flavor, especially when paired with said cauliflower, it is a remarkably good one, particularly when added to little vinegar and maple syrup.
When I am not reading about who is to blame for the tragedy of Romeo and Juliet, I am taking care of business with another of Ottolenghi’s cookbooks. (Seriously, I have an Ottolenghi habit. More on that next entry.) I put together this wonderful cauliflower and hazelnut salad—enough for a solo dinner and lunch to boot. It's sweet, savory, crunchy, and soft. Consider it texture and flavor heaven. It is a paradoxically light but robust meal. It’s light in that there’s not a lot going on: we’re talking cauliflower, nuts, celery. But satisfying because of this spice combination and the roasted cauliflower, a veggie I always find more pleasing in its roasted state. Ottolenghi recommends this be served with chicken or fish, but I found it to be delightful all on its own.
Actually, scratch that—not entirely on its own. I had been aching to reread Island of the Blue Dolphins. This comes inspired by a long walk I took about a month ago along the headlands of Mendocino. Posted along most of the cliffs around here are signs decrying the poaching of abalone. I remember my first introduction to abalone through Scott O’Dell’s little book, where Karana and Ramo hunt them. As I walked in the wind and fog, I longed to return to this little book, which I have distinct memories of checking out from the local library. Thus, I trekked from the headlands to the delightful Mendocino bookstore (the Gallery Bookshop), where they did not have Island, neither then nor the time I returned last week. Thanks to the modern miracle that is Amazon Prime, I had a dinner companion last evening.
Now go mix some allspice with your cauliflower, pronto!
One Year Ago: Cioppino
Two Years Ago: Chicken with Cauliflower and Red Peppers
Three Years Ago: Butternut Squash and Sage Risotto
Four Years Ago: Frakh Ma'amra (Mediterranean Pigeons or Squabs Stuffed with Couscous)
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Roasted Cauliflower and Hazelnuts Salad
Adapted from Jerusalem
Yield:
Serves 1-2 (main dish), 3-4 (side salad)
Ingredients:
1 head cauliflower, broken into small florets
Serves 1-2 (main dish), 3-4 (side salad)
Ingredients:
1 head cauliflower, broken into small florets
2 tablespoons
olive oil
5 tablespoons hazelnuts/filberts
2 medium to large celery
stalks, sliced
1/3 cup flat leaf parsley leaves
1/3 cup pomegranate
seeds (I didn’t have any, so I substituted blueberries)
generous ¼
teaspoon cinnamon
generous ¼ teaspoon allspice
1 tablespoon sherry
or red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon hazelnut oil
1 ½ teaspoon maple syrup
salt and
freshly ground black pepper
Instructions:
1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
2.
Mix the cauliflower with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil, ½ teaspoon
salt, and some black pepper. Spread out in a roasting pan, and roast
for 25-35 minutes, until the cauliflower is crisp and parts of it have
turned brown. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and set aside to cool
down.
3. Decrease the oven temperature to 325 degrees. Spread the
hazelnuts on a baking sheet and roast for 10-15 minutes, until they
smell nutty. Be careful not the burn them.
4. Allow the nuts to cool a
little, then coarsely chop them and add them to the cauliflower, along
with the rest of the ingredients. Stir, taste, and season with salt and
pepper.
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